One of my biggest fears here was that one of these old, rickety buses would break down while I was on it. Yesterday during lunch it happened. …about half-way home. Luckily the walk from where I was only took 25 minutes or so. It’s surprising this doesn’t happen more often considering how often the bus driver’s have to keep restarting the bus, and some fuss and pour water into the radiator at stop lights. Of course, my other fear is being on the bus when it hits a car or vice versa. I actually saw it happen not too long ago (and it was the bus number I take). Boy was I glad I wasn’t on that bus!
There are three big holidays in China, each which up until two years ago, lasted for 7-days each. These holidays are called Golden weeks. The May holiday has been cut short and the other two are unofficially broken up according to business needs. Originally, the government created the 7-day holidays in order to try to encourage consumer spending and tourism. One of the holidays (National Day), just passed. I had 6 days off (including my usual Sunday and Wednesday). I went to Wutai Mountain with my boss, her husband, and two other teachers.
Mt. Wutai is one of the most famous places in China. There is a big monastery consisting of several temples there. Thousands of Chinese people went there during the holiday to offer incense and prayers. Of course, the religious spirit didn’t stop some Chinese from scamming the blonde foreigner. Three young men anxiously tried to assist me as I burned my incense and sent my meditations to each of the four corners (as is the custom in this part of China). Then proceeded to ask me for money, which I began to give to the first guy who helped me initially, but he then insisted I should give money to each of his friends for helping as well. Fortunately, I was saved by the British teacher who came in and asked what I was doing. I told him I thought I was being scammed, which of course I knew I was. I am just too nice to flat out refuse. Thank goodness he cut in. He also helped me get the excellent deal I got on my new fox stole. He loves to haggle, but personally I hate it and usually either just pay what they ask or don’t buy the item even if I want it. I’m pretty sure I was way over-charged for grapes the other day. Too bad I can’t find it in me to be tougher that way. Consequently, I really dislike shopping in stores where there are no prices, but of course, the stores with prices are already higher priced (or would be if one haggled well).
Beggars could be seen along the many paths and stairways of the temples and mountain. Amazingly even a man with one leg managed to crawl halfway up the mountain. I am sure whoever he works with or for, carried him up. People could be seen walking up the mountain on step at a time; after each step he or she would fall prostrate, pray, and then walk one more step. It takes many days to reach the main temple this way. Even a woman with a small child doing this; the child was no more than 5 or 6 years old. Coming down the mountain was fun since it began to pour rain and the steps were very slippery. Being as tall as I am, coming down the stairs is especially difficult. Going up the hundreds of stairs to the top of the mountain I was way ahead of the other two women (although Nathaniel, the 22 year old British teacher) was way ahead of all of us. Going down I was in last place, and my legs would not stop shaking after.
I went to Yingze Park, which is not too far away from here. It is a nice park where one can’t rent paddle boats and such if one is not alone. It was terribly crowded with the holiday, although everywhere in China is crowded all the time. Privacy is non-existent in many ways. When I cook, wash dishes, or do laundry anyone passing by or looking out of their windows can see (and vice versa), and the sounds from every other apartment carry. I always know when someone comes or goes and can even recognize footsteps and door sounds. Life is fairly regimented with the work schedules being similar for everyone and all apartment gates locking by 11 pm. There would be no way to stay out late without staying in a hotel or something.
My own classes start tomorrow (although I have a full 10 1/2-hr day). All Chinese days are 10 hours because lunch is 2.5 hours long. I kind of dislike it, but in some ways it makes the afternoons seem much shorter. The Chinese nap during lunch, which is why they need such a long lunch, but with such short evenings they have to. At least some days I get off earlier. Since I can’t nap, the lack of sleep catches up to me on my days off, and I end up sleeping the morning away, but feeling better. As it is I have my second cold since arriving in China. The heat will not come on until Nov 5. It is controlled by the government, but even so I am told it is not very good, which I am sure is true. This winter is supposed to be particularly cold worldwide. Send me warm thoughts!
Sasha
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