Taiyuan is a city surrounded by mountains on three sides, but one can only see the mountains on fair, sunny days. Many, if not most days are cloudy or hazy both as a result of pollution and because we are still in the rainy season. I am told that there are many more sunny days now than there were 10 or even 5 years ago because Taiyuan (and China) has done a lot to clean up its act the past few years, although the recent increase in automobiles here has led to the first decline in air quality in 5 years. I have to admit I expected worse and only on especially bad days when I am standing at the bus stop does the air quality really bother me.
In terms of air the stench of garbage is alive everywhere in this city because there are no dumpsters or even outdoor trash cans that I can see. Piles of trash take the place of official garbage cans and double as compost piles. In the apartment complex cement beds filled with dirt serve the same purpose, and unseen people come and take some of the garbage away. I say some because it is obvious that it is regularly being taken ways, but some items will remain for many days. Stray cats also live on or near the heaps ferreting out food, and if they are lucky they find some meat and can be seen running to hide with their treasure.
The people are a dichotomy of cold, urban rudeness and old world hospitality. Hoards of people push and shove each other to gain space on overcrowded buses. On congested streets I am often jostled without apology, and people will unabashedly cut in line. I often walk down the street to hear calls of “hello”, and if I look will get a smile and wave (usually these are young men, because the women are shy and seem to be less open). If I return the greeting or simply smile and wave back I am usually met with beaming grins.
The school where I teach is on a University campus and is thus teeming with young people. Old people like to hang out on the campus as well I presume for its spacious grounds and courtyards. They can be seen at various hours of the day enacting traditional Chinese chance for exercise or practicing Tai-Chi either individually or in large groups. I see one elderly woman in the common court between our apartments daily, doing some modified form of Tai-chi or Qi-dong. Seeing the elderly exercise outdoors in this manner is a routine sight, and I assume it is why they can live so long despite the terrible air pollution and public indoor smoking.
I have not adventured much beyond my neighborhood yet as my teaching and my own school work keep me pretty busy, and I am conserving money until I get my first paycheck around the 16th. I feel no pressing need to try to go out and find places, in the process of which I will inevitably get lost, since I have already seen so much in China. It is kind of relieving and nice to just come home after half a day of teaching and stay home. Some days I have a full day, but some days I only teach 4 hours. I was asked to add 4 hours (for overtime) starting next week so I will be a bit busier.
It seems to be typical for Chinese (and Korean) people not to communicate in advance the plans of the day or changes in plans. I was told last week that all the teachers had to attend a 1 hour training session about University application from a University counselor so we can better help our students in the process. At 7:20 this morning I got a knock on my door to find out the training was at 8 am, and at 9 am there was a parent-teacher conference where I would have to talk about the student’s behavior and performance to the parents. Last week they changed my schedule, but did not tell me, so I went in to school after lunch only to find out I did not have to teach for 2 more hours. If one wants to learn flexibility, Asia is the place to do it. I am actually amazed at my own level of patience and tolerance in terms of the noise, being pushed or elbowed on the bus, waiting for buses that don’t arrive on time (and then 2 arrive one after another!). I suppose I have to owe it to a combination of my older age and yoga.
Sasha
